How to ride a tap-tap

The streets are flooded with tap-taps, buses (the van kind) and motorcycle taxis, so it really isn’t that hard to spot them. However, depending on the time of day, it can be next to impossible to find a place on one. Tap-taps are the most cost-effective and most common way to travel. A trip on one will cost anywhere between 1 and 3 haitian dollars (between 12.5 and 37.5 cents US). Most tap-taps are small pickup trucks with a canopy on the back, a wooden bench running down each side of the bed.

Finding one

To find a tap-tap you just flag one going by that has room on it (which is a subjective assessment). Because they have canopies on top, you can’t directly see how many people are already on it – the better indication is how low the truck is riding, or if you see heads on the back peering over top of the canopy. One of the common pickup truck tap-taps has space for 6 people on each bench for a total of 12. But that is by no means at full capacity. You’ll often see 1-2 people standing, bent over, in the middle, available lap space being taken advantage of, and 2-3 people standing on the tailgate. Whether people take advantage of the standing space is dependant on how busy the system currently is, and how desperate the individuals are to get to where they going.

In the area we are in (Delmas 19), there are a couple of different types of hand signals depending on where you want to go. One of the major destinations around PaP is Pétionville (PV), which has a different signal than other places in the signal. To flag a tap-tap going anywhere but PV, you hold your arm out and wiggle your index finger down. If you are headed for PV, you hold your thumb up and repeatedly wave it over your shoulder. Once you have the tap-tap driver’s attention there are a few things that can happen. If you are traveling in a group, you can optionally hold up the number of fingers according to the size of your group. The driver can respond in a number of ways:

  1. He can ignore you all together.
  2. Point his finger straight up, indicating standing room only. You respond with either a nod or a shake of your head depending on whether you are willing to stand for the trip
  3. If you have indicated you want to go to PV, and the driver isn’t going there, he’ll indicate by pointing down back at you, or will just keep driving
  4. Otherwise he’ll pull over and you jump in the back, squeezing down between any passengers already in the back.

Load em up!

Most of the time the driver will pull over as soon as he feels it is safe (once again “safe” is a relative concept). You simply climb in the back and squeeze down between any customers already on. It is not uncommon for the driver to simply stop in the right lane, blocking traffic (the catalyst for horns to start sounding), so you must be fairly efficient at mounting your ride. Although uncommon, sometimes you must jump on while the truck is still rolling. We haven’t had to do that yet, possibly because the driver feels sorry for the naïve “blan”.

The entrance sequence to the tap-tap is when you’ll have contact with the largest number of your fellow passengers. It isn’t uncommon to have a balancing hand put on your knee, a bag of goods (or perhaps a small child) passed up first for stowing before the rider gets on, or a saving arm wrapped around you, stopping you falling off the back as the driver lurches back into motion before everyone is settled. Sometime during this loading process the truck bounces into motion, and the engine begins to grind up the hill again,  which is by no means an easy task if there is a truly full load.

The actual ride itself can be quite nice if you don’t end up in too much traffic – there is usually a decent breeze (dusty and smokey as it might be) coming in through the canopy if it can keep moving. However if you get locked in traffic (which is at least as likely), the ride turns into a bit of a sauna, with the travellers starting to perspire freely, neighbours exchanging sweat with each other.

Paying

There are a few different situations for paying the driver. Often the tap-tap crew is composed of 2 people – the driver and someone to deal with payment. If you are leaving from a starting point (say in Pétionville), payment is collected before the ride leaves. If most of the passengers are jumping on along the way, often the second person will get out of the cab and stand on the tailgate near the end of the ride. He will collect the fares as the tap-tap rolls towards its destination. Otherwise once you get off the truck you go up to the cab and pay on the way.

There is really no indication as to how much you’ll pay for the trip until you go to pay. The vast majority of the trips cost about 2 Haitian Dollars (10 Gourdes), but sometimes they collect 3. We have yet to pay only 1, but I imagine that is reserved for very short trips. They’ll happily give change, but you still need some small bills or change. The other thing that is important to remember is to get your money out before you jump on – it is often next to impossible to get at your pockets once you have shoe-horned yourself onto the bench between your travelling companions.

Getting off

As long as you know where you are (which has been the tricky part so far, as it is often difficult to see anything from within the confines of the canopy), this is by far the easiest part. There are 3 main ways to do it:

  1. if there is a buzzer button within reach, just press it
  2. if you are near the front, and the window between the cab and the truck bed is closed, just tap a few times on the window
  3. otherwise just say “mesi” loud enough for the driver to hear, or one of your fellow passengers that is in the position to do something, and it will be taken care of for you by either method (1) or (2).

Once again, the driver will pull over as soon as possible (most of the time immediately, much to the annoyance of the vehicles behind it, or the pedestrians who happen to be in the way), then you squeeze out of your seat, make your way up the centre of the truck bed, doing your best not to elbow or step on anyone, then hop out the back of the truck. If you haven’t done so already, you pay the driver, and you’re on your way!

A mostly-full tap-tap.

An almost-full tap-tap.

In search of a Local Architecture

Over the past weeks I’ve noticed what I would guess to be upward of 95% of the construction I’ve seen (both standing and crumbled) has been made with concrete block, some parged, and some not. Anyone that knows my architectural interests knows that I’m highly interested in the way an architecture comes out of culture and place. The question I’m grappling with at this point, is what can be considered a local architecture, in a land where foreign occupation and aid-driven construction has been the norm for decades, or even centuries. Is any of what I’m seeing a reflection of how people live, and is it appropriate for the place? Or has it simply become the default — the easiest and cheapest form of construction provided by NGOs, much like the structures dropped onto the first nation reserves in Canada by our often less-than-concerned governments. To me, it is starting to feel like the latter, the resultant built environment having less to do with the local region and culture and more to do with the path to larger profits for the companies that parachute in to do the construction.

Before I go on, I want to be clear that I am not underestimating the complexity or difficulty of the reconstruction task ahead. It is a mammoth task, both in complexity and scale, with a lack of natural resources, lack of financial wealth, lack of government structure, and the sheer numbers of players. However, whenever there is a single-mindedness of what or how something should be done, I always think it is worth taking a step back to make sure it is truly the best way to proceed so the mark isn’t missed. It is often the best and most obvious solution that is the most difficult to see. After all, what is the point of building something if the solution doesn’t fit the problem?

There is, of course, a reason why sand, rock and cement is the predominant building material here – the deforestation is chronic and almost absolute. I’m sure there is a multitude of reasons for this, however there are two that are immediately obvious: the extensive use of charcoal and the aftermath of collapsed large scale mono-crop agri-business.

Charcoal is the primary energy source for a vast majority of the population, upwards of 70% if you believe the teachings of Paul Farmer. For most, charcoal is the only energy source even remotely affordable, and even at that, some research says that many Hatians spend upwards of 20-30% of their daily income on charcoal alone. And charcoal production, as with our canadian pulp and paper production, indiscriminately consumes wood – there is no concept of selective logging or clearing – everything can be fed into the industrial machine, leaving nothing behind, robbing the land of water an nutrients. However, most Haitians have no other option, so until a widely available inexpensive alternative fuel source is deployed, nothing is going to change, and the forests will continue to disappear.

The other contributor is the systematic regime of land clearing for mono-crop agriculture exports for products such as sugar and rice. At one point Haiti produced 75% of the world’s sugar, but due to the bottom dropping out of the Haitian export market, Haiti has become a net importer of sugar. This and the systemic fostering of resource dependency by outside markets for their own gain, along with other food imports as part of the ongoing aid initiatives, have all but decimated the agriculture industry here.

These conditions have created an environment in which wood is incredibly scarce, so it is not currently a viable building material in the reconstruction of the millions of homes and other buildings required.

So the low-hanging fruit is concrete. Apparently at one point there was a thriving cement industry here, one of the plants not too far from PaP. That industry seems to have collapsed, sometime after the Haitian government did a wholesale sell-off of the majority of the public sector businesses in 1999. Veniel, our host at the Wall Centre isn’t sure why the local plant shut down, but it is something I’d like to figure out while I’m here.

Certainly there are some advantages to concrete block construction. Block manufacturing can be distributed — apparently all you need is a block form, a pile of sand, a pile of rock, some cement and some water (hopefully clean enough to not affect the binding qualities of the cement), and somewhere to tip the blocks out to let them dry, and voila! You have a one-man manufacturing system (quality of block suspect, to be sure). But you still need to ship the blocks, import the cement, and after you finally manage to stockpile enough blocks for a building, stick them all together with mortar. And it still isn’t a structural system within an earthquake zone; that needs to be  done with rebar-packed poured-in-place concrete columns and beams. So that leaves the block to play the role of infill and shear wall between these elements. Surely there could be more efficient and less expensive ways to solve this problem. And once again – the cement source leads me to question intention – if it isn’t being made in Haiti (to be fair, at present I’m not positive of this detail), there is certainly someone making a lot of money from the sale of it. And anyone that has picked up a bag of it also knows that it certainly can’t be cheap to ship. Which adds to my suspicion. Is this yet another example of foreign companies and/or nations getting rich from someone else’s misery?

All that aside, I’m having a hard time believing that concrete block is appropriate for the place, based on climate alone. In this hot climate the uninsulated and often poorly vented buildings soak up the heat and become sweltering and suffocating microclimates long after sunset. Which still leaves me with my original question: why nothing but concrete block? What about tilt up panel? ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) systems? Stabilized rammed earth? There must be more viable options than this single approach to construction.

None of this changes the fact that cement is a hugely energy-intense form of construction, even before you start adding the cost to ship the vast amounts of cement into the country. And it also doesn’t answer the question as to why concrete block construction eclipses any other form of construction I’ve seen so far. There is no doubt that at this point in time the local skills are concentrated in this area, but I think that is likely because the default of concrete block construction is driving the industry, not the other way around.

I’m still hopeful that I’ll find a more “honest” architecture in the rural areas (which is probably the better place to be looking for it in anyway). I’m hopeful that I’ll find designs that have emerged from a history of people building by themselves for themselves. I have heard about the “gingerbread” houses in Jacmel, and a few in PaP. Sadly most of them shook apart in the quake (Jessica thinks that most of them survived, but I guess we’ll see when we get to Jacmel). But are they just a stagnant artifact from one era of occupation, or were they developed to fill local needs? I obviously  have more research to do – both on the ground and in the books. As always, I’m optimistic that something exists, and I’m excited to discover what it reveals about the people that have lived on this island over the past hundreds of years… but most importantly, how it might teach us how how to “build back better”, not just build back stronger.

On the ground. Head spinning.

So here we are in Haiti. Finally. 34 degrees, humid and, as we confirmed today, very chaotic in Port-au-Prince. After a 3am wakeup call yesterday, we had another longish day of travel, flying over PaP late in the afternoon with beautiful sun washing over the city and mountains. PaP is huge. And if I had been doing my duties as bag-carrier/photographer I could show you a picture or perhaps a video clip of it. But apparently I’m not. And I think the 3am start made me lose my mind, at least for the day.

Jessica had arranged for the first part of our stay at the Wall International Guest House, who were to pick us up at the airport. Everything went smoothly with the airline, clearing customs was a breeze, and as we walked through the airport hoping to see a sign with our names on it, we quickly came to the conclusion that they weren’t going to be there, and were coming to grips with figuring out how we might make a phone call to sort it out. However, we were saved by a knight in red armour (or at least t-shirt) — there are airport officials who are there to help divert the onslaught of taxi drivers set on making a fare. He not only led us out to the parking lot to have a further look for our to-be hosts, but also called them several times and waited with us until we were on our way. A fantastic surprise for a brain-dead non-creole speaking ‘blan’ (white guy).

After a somewhat restful sleep in 30-ish weather and a fear of mosquitoes, we met our fixer Emmanuel, who turned out to be great. Our main instruction to him was that we wanted to get to know and be able to start to navigate PaP, as we wouldn’t be able to foot the bill for fixer and driver for the entire time. Thus began our whirlwind tour of PaP by truck. The energy and apparent chaos of the city was somewhat overwhelming to say the least.

It was near impossible to capture the energy and general scene of the parts of the city we visited – starting in Dalmas 19, heading up to Petionville, then for a quick interview at a residence in the hills above Petionville, then back through the city. It was a whirlwind of a day, but not too busy to enjoy a delicious meal at Emmanuel’s favourite restaurant.

The day was a great orientation, and was very necessary to get going, but it felt a bit too much like tourist, which left me feeling somewhat anxious.

After being dropped off at the Wall’s house around 4:30, we still had much to do, but there was little left in us. It may take a while to get in the groove of this, and I’m certainly going to have to get more comfortable with the camera to be able to be effective at all here…. but I’m sure it will all come together.

On our way. Sort of.

A year has now elapsed since we were first set to go to Haiti for 5-6 weeks as part of Jessica’s Master of Journalism thesis. We were prepared to go into a chaotic environment of the earthquake-ravaged country, coupled with a devastating cholera outbreak, and an uncertain outcome of an impending election to set the scene for a perfect storm. However with the eruption of pre-election violence, we were forced to back out and abandon our tickets at the last minute. Time lapse to a year later. Jessica has won an International Development Research Council grant to do the research she had set out to do a year ago. This time not for a few weeks, but between 4 and 6 months. Game on!

So, with a 5 month trip to Haiti ahead, the logical thing to do is a big house renovation. Of course. So when I should be doing research, Creole lessons, and preparing logistics, I find myself in the wood and metal shops fabricating furniture and re-assembling our home instead. Nothing like these scenes to help one settle down to think about a trip:

On the upside, at least Jessica has been diligent about getting plans in order – otherwise we would be camping on the side of the road somewhere near the Vancouver airport, as I still wouldn’t have booked tickets. So here we are T-9 days. So far the plan is to head to New Orleans for 10 days to look at the Katrina aftermath as part of the project and to do a dry run of our systems and equipment. For me, the preparations for the New Orleans segment has been to watch a half dozen Treme episodes (a TV series about a neighbourhood of the same name in post-Katrina timeframe), and looking through a guide book looking at history and searching for good restaurants.

So despite my best efforts, we are getting there. Tickets booked, accommodation sorted for the first 3 weeks, shots suffered through, and technical side of things coming together. And not only that. We now have a functioning bathroom for the first time in over two months. Let’s hear it for small pleasures! So, it is starting to feel like we’ll make it, although I guess one way or another we’ll simply have to.

An almost complete bathroom

16' of books. Trying to get the most out of 2 square feet of floor space.